Экотуризм в Сибири -Steppe units of the Khakassky Zapovednik

Lake Shira, which lies 10 km east from the village of Shira, is one of the largest and most celebrated lakes in the Khakassian steppe. Already since the late 19th century this salt lake has been known for the curative properties of its mineralized water and mud, extracted from the lake bed. The mud is in fact obtained from the layer of loess which is extremely high in sulfuric content and its medicinal properties are regarded as good as those of the world-renown mud of the Black Sea (Sochi). Therefore, it is not surprising that a number of spa and healing centres sprung up at the lake’s shore already in Soviet times, concentrated in the village of Zhemchuzhniy (Pearl Village).

Lake Shira with a maximum depth of 22 m covers 32 km2.

It is surrounded by mildly undulating hills (150-250 m) covered by wide grasslands interspersed with spectacular rocky outcrops carved by the wind. Interestingly, the lake is fed by the river Son, but has no outflow and its water constantly evaporates. Only one species of fish is known to live there. Of particular value is the alluvial floodplain where the river Son empties into the lake. Only this floodplain with the surrounding steppe comprises the Lake Shira Unit (1,397 ha) of the Khakassky Zapovednik. Alongside valuable flora and fauna typical for brackish wetlands, the salt-marsh overgrown with reed vegetation provides great nesting and feeding opportunities for a number of waders and songbirds. Cranes, shelducks and scooters are also frequent dwellers and the site attracts many migrating birds (swans and geese).

Lake Itkul (sometimes also called Itkol) is the largest freshwater lake in Khakassia - an important source of drinking water in the valley. This quite large lake (23 km2), fed by waters of the river Karysh, comes a bit of a surprise in the steppe as it is surrounded by a number of smaller and larger salt lakes, including Shira Lake, just 3 km away. The Lake Itkul Unit of the zapovednik (nature reserve) protects 2/3 of the entire lake’s territory, five neighbouring slightly mineralized Spirinski lakes and the surrounding steppes. The typical steppe vegetation of Khakassia is well represented here where several different steppe types are present not far from one another. Many rare and endemic steppe plants like locoweed (Oxytropis includens), storksbill (Erodium tataricum) are present furthermore the lake is rich in fish species (bass, perch, zander, bream, Crucian carp).

Lake Bele (White Lake) is in fact a system of two interconnected salt lakes, usually called Great and Small Lake Bele in the Shira Lake Valley. The two halves of the lake covering 77 km2 are connected by a narrow isthmus, now regulated by a dam. The lake has similar curative properties as Lake Shira and its highly mineralized water has a similar chemical composition to sea water. The extracted mud is used for healing. The ridge separating the two parts is dominated by a hill called Chalpan (dormant volcano) providing great views on the entire lake and its beautiful surroundings. At the foot of the hill there are several kurgans and traces of a former fortress of the Tagar culture, as well as 5 separate sites with well-preserved rock drawings of various historic periods (the oldest one dating back to 2000 BC, the youngest made in the VIII century).

The lake lying on the main Central Asian flyway is an important stop-over

site for migratory birds, in particular for ducks, geese and swans heading to the Arctic. Also flamingos (Phoenicopterus roseus), cranes, terns (especially Hydroprogne cuspia) and various birds of prey like Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis)are frequent guests at the lake. The surroundings of the lake represent a well-preserved segment of the Khakasian steppe with many rare and endemic plant species, one example being a rare orchid (Neottianthe cucullata). The steppe near the lake is home to ground squirrels, dwarf hamsters, jerboas, as well as rare Steppe Ratsnake (Elaphe dione) and the locally endemic snake Siberian Pitviper (Gloydius halys). Unfortunately, the protected zone covers only part of the lake and steppe. Many tourists visiting the lake trample the fragile steppe vegetantion and in a recent survey a serious loss of biodiversity was recorded. There are a few camping places and recreation facilities on the lakeshore outside the protected zone.

This most northerly unit of the zapovednik is situated between the confluence of Chorny (Black) and Biely (White) Ius Rivers, comprising of a mosaic of ecosystems, including forest-steppe on the foothills of Kuznetsky Alatau, bogs, marshes and grasslands (steppe) in the northern part of Shira Lake Valley. Landscape diversity is reflected in local biodiversity; there are 41 mammals recorded in the unit, including moose and roe deer. The unit is inhabited by a pack of wolves and several lynxes. The brown bear roams there frequently. Smaller mammals include badgers, chipmunks (cutely called in Russian burunduks), both Siberian and European weasels, sables, shrews, jerboas, squirrels, polecats, rabbits and 8 bat species. Numerous bird species nest here, including grebes, ducks, Eurasian Bittern (Botaurus stellaris), Western Curlew (Numenius arquata), Swinhoe's Snipe (Gallinago megala), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Godlewski’s Bunting (Emberiza godlewskii) and many others. The little river Kizilka crossing the territory plays an important role in spawning of native Siberian Dace (Leuciscus leuciscus baicalensis), European Perch (Perca fluviatilis) and Pike (Essox lucius).

This steppe unit of the zapovednik on the left bank of the Great Krasnoyarsk Water Reservoir, near the village with a reminiscent name Soviet Khakassia, protects a system of hills Oglachty that enliven the otherwise flat steppe landscape of Central Khakassia. They are covered mostly by treeless grasslands, but on some of the northern slopes groves of birch and bushes prevail. Interestingly, except for the Yenisey River nearby, there are no water sources in the area (except for occasional rain- and snowfall in winter). Despite that over 400 plant species thrive in these relatively harsh dry conditions. In Oglachty grow many eye-catching flower species - Granulate Gagea (Gagea granulosa), Pumilum Lily (Lilium pumilum), Large-flowered Cypripedium (Cypripedium macranthon), Spring Pheasant's Eye (Adonis vernalis) and others. The area is rich in bird species, too. Rare birds of prey living here include Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos),Saker Falcon (Falco cherrung), Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus) and others. In winter, Snowy Owls (Nyctea scandiaca) appear here. In 2007 a pair of lynx was observed to settle in the unit.

The actual protected area consists of two separate sections divided by a valley with an abandoned village Aglachtag. In and around the protected zone, there are many archeological monuments with a number of very valuable discoveries including remains of a Neolithic settlement and well-preserved rock drawings (3,000 to 10,000 years old). Near the northern section at the shoreline of the Great Krasnoyarsk Water Reservoir, the zapovednik administration has delineated a place for a tent camp and equipped it with a field kitchen. The place offers great views of the surrounding area with a possibility to swim in the clean blue water of the reservoir. There are several topical guided excursions on offer by the zapovednik which can be booked in advance.

Chol-Bogaz represents a well-preserved segment of typical Khakassian forest-steppe, being part of the Azyr-Tal Ridge of the Batenevsky low-mountain system.

The ecosystem is dominated by so called ‘park forests’ made of sparsely growing larch trees and bushes. The whole area is rich in biodiversity with a number of rare species, such as the beautiful Siberian Fawn-lily (Erythronium sibiricum), birds, as Godlewski’s Bunting (Emberiza godlewskii), Saker Falcon (Falco cherrung) and Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) to name just a few, all recorded in the Red Book of Endangered Species of Russia. There are also abundant badgers, red foxes, ground squirrels and other rodents (families Dipodidae, Cricetidae).

Kamyziakskaya steppe represents a primordial Khakassian steppe with characteristic cuestas for this region- long low ridge with steep scarp slopes and gentle back slopes, formed by the differential erosion of strata of differing hardness. There are several types of steppe near one another interspersed with patches of stone scree and salt marshes. It is a peaceful place where one can feel the infinity of time and space. The silence is only interrupted by the occasional whistling sounds of the wind. The inconspicuous salt lake Ulug-Kol 5 km southwards from the actual reserve is an important bird area. Thousands of ducks, swans, wild geese and other birds stop at the lake during their migration, providing unparalleled experience for birdwatchers. In summer, the area is abundant with Northern Pintail (Anas acuta), Garganey (Anas querquedula), Common Pochard (Aythya ferina), Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea), Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius), Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus), Demoisele Crane (Anthropoides virgo) and various gulls. Furthermore, it is the major breeding area of Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) in Siberia.

The protection of the unit is also of historical and cultural importance with several Skiff burial sites (7th-2nd centuries BC), kurgans (10th and 11th centuries AD) and remains of the irrigation system used in the Middle Ages found on the territory. A famous complex of kurgans - the Vale of Kings - stretches southeast from the unit, including the largest burial mound in Khakassia – Stalbik (18 metres high). The stone bulwark of the mound has a diameter of 120 metres and is made of huge rock blocks weighing up to 60 tonnes. It is still a big mystery how the ancient people (2nd and 3rd centuries BC) were able to transfer the blocks from the quarry 30 kilometers away from the actual kurgan site. There are no special tourist facilities near this unit of Khakassky Zapovednik. However, it is easily accessible by a car for a day trip from Abakan. There are great opportunities for hiking in the surrounding area (however no designated trails), avoiding the disturbances to the protected zone. The zapovednik’s staff organizes guided excursions and special bird-watching tours to the area.

Khakassky Zapovednik has its own Information and Environmental Education Resource Centre in the city of Abakan. So far, this is used mainly by local people; however the zapovednik’s staff strives to make it as friendly as possible for all visitors. It is the place to start discovering the fascinating natural world of the protected area, to obtain further information (booklets, books, films on a DVD) and to buy souvenirs. So far, the zapovednik has only one information centre in the field near Lake Itkul (limited operation hours). The zapovednik’s administration publishes a monthly newsletter ‘Zapovedano’ and various other information materials regularly. However, most of the texts are published in Russian only. The official website of the zapovednik: www.reserve.khakasnet.ru.

Visitors to any of the 9 units of the zapovednik need to register before entry. The zapovednik’s administration provides detailed information about the zapovednik and can help with the organization of your trip. It also issues entry permits to the core area of the protected reserve, however only to a very limited number of people per year and advance bookings are necessary. There are several excursion itineraries available, which allow visitors to spend some time in the reserve and together with reserve rangers observe local wildlife and participate in scientific research. Such itineraries are true field expeditions. Accommodation is in simple log cabins and tents. The mountain units could be inaccessible in winter or spring due to snowstorms, risks of avalanches and strong frosts. Furthermore, the park is a true wilderness environment, therefore we advise you to read the Visitors safety section on our webpage as well as getting an updated weather forecast before the start of your trip. A serious risk is posed by ticks - common during the spring and early summer. It is advisable to wear appropriate clothing which offers some degree of protection and to check for ticks on your body and clothing after hiking. Tick bites can cause serious illness. See also the Instructions and rules section to find out more about restrictions in the zapovednik.